April (or May) in Paris

So we are off to Paris. I like Air France for many reasons. First off, I like the French flight attendants who are so chic and put together, even at the end of the trip when everyone else looks worn out. The food is a step above the usual airline food, especially in business class. I would normally never drink any alcohol while flying because it is so dehydrating, but I make an exception on Air France because the wine is so good. One glass not only calms you down, but gets you ready for what is coming. And lastly, the little amenities bag is always stocked with good stuff.


I read in the WSJ last week that a non-stop trip to Paris this summer will be around $1000. If you are willing to make a stop in say, Frankfurt or Amstredam, you can find flights for $650. Now I've done it both ways and much prefer the non-stop, but for $400, I can do the lay-over thing. I've been fortunate enough to go business class a few times, however I had a baby that literally cried the whole trip once, and a toddler who screamed a couple of hours on another. (I also remember glancing over at the husband on these trips and seeing him with earphones on, watching a movie, eating his ice cream sundae and pretending he didn't know me...but that is a subject for another day...)


I have always arrived in the morning. This is good or bad, depending on how you feel. I think the key to fighting jet lag is to make yourself eat the breakfast they serve on the plane right before you land and try and stay up all day. It is very tempting when you arrive at your hotel to just lie down for "a few minutes". But trust me, a few minutes morphs into all day, and you wake up at 7:00pm raring to go...


As for getting into the city from the airport, your choices are limited. I've done the bus, the van and the taxi. I much prefer the taxi, but only when I am on expense account, because the fare is crazy (and if you think NY taxi drivers are wild, wait until you take the Parisian ride). The bus is long and tiring, but cheap. The middle ground would be arranging in advance a van that picks up around 10 people at the same time and drops you at your hotel. If you get a quiet group of people, this can be a good alternative.


There are so many different choices as far as hotels go, and I think I will wait and discuss those tomorrow. The big decision is what arrondisment (neighborhood) you will stay in. Your first trip to Paris will be very different than later ones because you will want to hit all of the touristy spots. I think most people want to see the Eiffel Tower, L'Arc de Triomphe, Notre Dame and the Louvre. If you add to that the Champs Elysees and Versaille, you've filled up a few days.



The Eiffel Tower is at least a half a day, whether or not you decide to climb it. You have to get tickets to go up, and depending on the time of year, it can be very crowded. I enjoy the climb when it isn't crowded, but if it is packed, I prefer to admire it from the ground. There are 2 restaurants on the tower, one called Altitude 95, which is about $40 a person. The other is the famous Jules Vernes, which can run you $200 a person at dinner. I have never eaten at either, but the view from Jules Vernes is suppose to be fabulous. Across from the tower, there is a famous little carousel that stays busy. If you have kids, this is a great little stop. They have a little snack shop with yummy treats, and you can watch them ride the carousel while sitting on a bench and looking at the Tower.


The Arc de Triomphe is at the end of the Champs Elysee. Because of this, you could really make this a day. Champs Elysee is the beautiful tree-lined street in Paris surrounded by cafes and shops. In one block, you will pass Chanel, Fendi, Louis Vuitton...not to mention cafes, cinemas,etc. If you stroll down the street, and turn off onto St. Honore, you probably won't reach the Arc de Triomphe which is at the end of the street until evening, especially if you stop for lunch at one of the many cafes along the way...all of which are really good and really pricey. I remember on my first trip being amazed that a coke was $6.00 and a glass of wine was $3.oo. And by the way, there is not a bad glass of wine to be found in all of Paris.

The trip out to Versaille is definitely a day trip. This is the grand "castle" that was the residence for kings in the 1600's and 1700's. It is probably best known as the home of Louis IIX. It is truly an stunning place and well-worth the time. The architecture and artwork are amazing. The grounds are beautiful, and my friend Kelly who was just there said there is a lovely hotel, and a restaurant just opened by Gordon Ramsay (famous TV chef) which is really wonderful.

Personally, and the husband will back me up on this, I do not order food well in France. This is a mystery because I speak very fluent french and have no problem speaking with the the waiters...but for some reason, no matter what I order, it comes out wrong. Unfortunately, this has turned out badly for the husband who has a tendency to stare at his food, look at me, and say "What the hell is this?" when presented with his plate. For this reason, we have tended to stick with local cafes on our last few trips. Better to mess up a $10 meal than a $100 meal. And to be honest, some of the best food we have tasted has been in small cafes. My son prefers the "Quik" which is a french version of Burger King...he also enjoys the chocolate mousse which seems to accompany every kids meal...

And finally, the Louvre. I am an art lover and painter, so I could spend the week there, but I think that most people tire of it after a few hours....Of course you have to go and try to see the Mona Lisa. You probably won't because there will be a crowd in front of it and you are not allowed to hop on anyone's shoulders (tried it). You then go and see the statue of David, which is glorious, but embarrassing for young kids...The impressionist section is my favorite. I love Monet, Manet, Degas...it feels surreal to see the original paintings of ones you have only seen in books and posters. And don't miss the cafe downstairs...very chic and a good break. Then go downstairs where Virgin records sits and see the spot where Tom Hanks thinks Mary is buried in The De Vinci Code. You will know it because there is always a group of tourists standing there taking pictures...

Ok, so enough for today. We've been a true tourist.

So until tomorrow, when we will masquerade as a true Parisian...