"I like fashion to go down to the street, but I can't accept that it should originate there." Coco Chanel

In the movie "The Devil Wears Prada", Meryl Streep plays a part which was known to be based on Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue magazine. Near the end of the movie, she makes a declaration to her assistant that "They all want to be us". Though probably a realistic statement at the time the movie was made, I'd go out on a limb and say that these days, not everyone wants to be "them", "them" being the leaders of the fashion industry. An article in Monday's Wall Street Journal detailed the decline in sales for major fashion magazines like Vogue, whose advertising pages are down by 20-30%. I noticed that the June issues of both Vogue and Bazaar topped out at around 150 to 170 pages, especially noticeable in Bazaar because it was supposedly the "Fall Preview" which is usually several hundred pages.



Just a few weeks ago, french haute-couture designer Christian Lacroix was said to be shutting down...or at least changing hands due to lack of business. For years, Lacroix had shuttled through CEO's, decrying the fact that nobody understood artistry, and not allowing anyone to reign in his designs. Even LVMH, under the brilliant leadership of Bernard Arnault was unable to keep him in check. Unlike designers like Vera Wang and Marc Jacobs, who were willing to create "lesser" lines, i.e. less expensive lines for the consumer, Lacroix refused to focus on profitability. In better times, he was able to wade through, but in current times, when consumers are being cautious about purchases, he was unable to make it.



LVMH, the group which oversees Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Fendi, etc...not to mention other luxury goods, is one of the few groups that have remained profitable during this period. They have been able to sustain some growth by convincing the consumer that some items are so classic and of such quality that investing in them even during these times is somehow smart.



Fashion magazines have been exploring online options, something that they had pretty much avoided over the last few years. Fashionistas love their magazines, but in the past year, fewer people were willing to pay the $6-$10 for their fashion fix. Bazaar, under the wise guidance of Glenda Bailey, seems to have faired better than most. I noticed that the September issue once again tops out at about 500 pages, a suggestion that advertisers are coming back a bit. It has been Bailey's ability to branch out and reach out that has benefited her magazine. Just this week, Saks.com sent out a blast-email to customers touting "Glenda Bailey's Top Picks for Fall". Brilliant marketing strategy when you consider that the Saks customer is also the Bazaar reader. What better than to peruse Glenda's "picks" online, and then go buy the magazine and see if you can find some of them? Saks is wisely banking on the fact that customers will read her top picks and then shop immediately for them online. A win-win for both.



Ms. Wintour, Vogue editor, seems to have been less willing or able to make the transition. For so long, Vogue has been the mother of all fashion magazines, not needing or wanting to "reach down" to the average consumer who may or may not be able to afford anything in the magazine...but still enjoys looking. Though still able to attract readers by the aesthetically beautiful covers ( summer covers of Cameron Diaz and Christy Turington were stunning), it seems that Vogue has been less able than say Bazaar or Elle, to reach out to the average consumer. Pages and pages of clothes that rarely cost under $1,000 may be fun to fantasize about, but in these times, the wiser magazines are learning that if you at least tip your head to the reader...in other words, give them a range of pricing so they feel included...your readership goes up. Bazaar's highly successful sections called "Fashion at any Age" reach out to readers from 20 to 70, and this has not gone un-noticed by readers. An effort to show some "lower end" lines has also given Bazaar and Elle an advantage...not that they are touting Target or WalMart...but they have been more willing to throw in the occasional item from Old Navy, Gap or J Crew.

The idea of having to go online to look at my Vogue or Bazaar is really depressing to me. I love my magazines...I save them for years and flip through them over and over again. When I see them in my mailbox, I get excited...yet I sometimes hold on to them for days before I open them, enjoying the cover and the anticipation. I think this is something like say, sports or music...a love that you are born with. It is a kind of code language that you develop..(Did you see the boots on page 53?)....

So until tomorrow, when we will review Glenda's "picks" for fall, and discuss the fact that even though the least expensive item is over $300 and the economy is still in the tank...a girl can dream...